In this ultimate guide for independent travel in Kerala, we will lay out everything you need to know to visit this peaceful paradise in the south of India fondly known as 'God's Own Country'.
I have spent more months than I can count breathing in the warm syrupy air of Kerala's tropical climate, watching dolphins bob around in the Arabian Sea, cycling the numerous trails around the region's famous backwaters, and wandering through the verdant tea plantations. Kerala may really be my favourite place on earth.
In this Kerala travel guide, I will tell you how to get there, things to know before you go, packing essentials, where to visit, things to do all over Kerala, and how to get off the beaten path.
CONTENTS
The Ultimate Guide for Independent Travel in Kerala
About Kerala
Kerala is on India's southwestern tip, in a region known as the Malabar Peninsula.
The official language is Malayalam, and not many people speak Hindi (the language most widely spoken in India) – although it's not difficult to find someone who speaks English. Along that same vein, Kerala is different from the rest of India in many ways...
They have the first ever democratically elected communist government (way back in 1957) and it is not unusual to see posters of Che Guevara and Krishna side-by-side. They also enjoy semi-autonomy from the central government of India, and something you may notice straight away is that Beef is commonly eaten, whereas in in the rest of India (with the exception of Goa and Sikkim) it is illegal to consume the mother cow.
Kerala, or Keralites, as her people are known, are multifaith and have a large Christian population - as this area was settled by the Portuguese (like Goa) and they brought their Jesus-loving ways with them.
Kerala has a 98% literacy rate and tops every social development list when compared to other Indian states. With this, and even though there is a lot of prosperity in Kerala, the people have been historically looked down upon by the northerners due to the darkness of their skin (India, like much of Asia, is obsessed with skin paleness).
Kerala frequently tops 'Best Of' lists, and it was once named as one of National Geographic's '10 Paradises on Earth.' It really is a place of beauty and charm, but as with everywhere, there is some room for improvement (more on that later).
When people picture Kerala in their mind's eye, they may imagine sprawling tea plantations and glittering backwaters, Chinese fishing nets, white and gold lungis, coconut trees, and a tiger or two. Here's how to experience all of that (apart from the tigers, let's leave them alone) and some of the lesser-known treats Kerala has in store.
When to Visit Kerala
In some parts of the world, if you visit off-season you can still enjoy the place, albeit with not-as-good weather, but with the perks of lower prices and fewer people. This is not the case for Kerala, as the weather is SO extreme, that visiting at the wrong time of year could ruin your experience.
India's monsoon moves up the country, beginning in Kerala sometime around May (monsoons are unpredictable, sometimes it's earlier, or later). The heaviest rains are normally in July and August and things are expected to start drying up towards the end of September (they have been known to still be wreaking havoc in October). However, in some bad years, like 2018, the monsoons are so wild and long that they cause severe floods and landslides and many people lose their homes or die. So if you want to travel around Kerala, you should avoid the main bulk of the monsoon season.
Before the monsoon comes around, the heat builds in Kerala to a point where you feel like you can't move or breathe, with 100% humidity the air is thick and wet. The months of April and May can be unbearable, and even with 3 fans pointing at your face you still can't do much. Yes, you could get AC (there will be power cuts) but stepping outside after being in a chilly ice box feels like a punch in the gut. It may sound like I am being dramatic but I am really not.
If I was visiting Kerala to explore the state, I would choose to visit from October – March (the peak/busiest months being December and January).
How to Get to Kerala
Kerala is served by 4 international airports (in order of North to South) -
Kannur
Calicut (Kozhikode)
Cochin (Kochi) (not to be confused with Japan's Kochi Airport)
Trivandrum (Thiruvananthapuram)
Cochin Airport is the most popular and accessible to fly into, and it was also the first airport in the world to be powered 100% by solar energy!
Kerala is connected by domestic flight to airports all over India, or if you'd rather come in by land, you have the option for a train or bus too. Train is my preferred mode of transport in India, it's cheap, comfortable and a great adventure! Here's everything you need to know to buy a train ticket and take the train in India as a tourist.
The south of India is a breeze compared to the rest, and I have never been harassed in Kerala. People are genuine, welcoming, and helpful. That being said, airport taxi drivers worldwide are a different breed of people, so I would suggest having your guesthouse/hotel send someone to pick you up when you first arrive in Kerala. Nobody wants to haggle and fight as soon as they've got off a plane.
Some cities in Kerala have Uber, and just for a rough idea of the price, when I get picked up by a rickshaw driver from Cochin Airport and go to my regular haunt of Cherai Beach (I'll explain more about this glorious place further down) – I pay 1000rs (£9) for the 45-minute journey. (YES, Kerala is a bit more expensive than the rest of India.)
Not sure what to pack for your trip to India? Check out the I Dream of Mangoes article:
Getting Around in Kerala
Hire a Moped (My Preference)
Driving in India may seem daunting, but actually it is easier than it looks. They drive on the left the same as the UK, and generally speaking, bigger vehicles get right of way. There are traffic wardens controlling the flow of traffic at busy intersections, and for the rest, if you keep your wits about you and move with the flow of cars and bikes it is not that hard to drive in Kerala.
I normally rent a 125cc moped for 400 rupees (£4) per day and scoot about. In Kerala, moped drivers must wear helmets (this is not the case in all of India, each state has different restrictions.) Petrol pumps are still manned, and speed limits although not obvious do exist. Here is a list of all Kerala upper-speed limits.
2. Train
With the exception of scooting around Kerala, my favourite way to get around India is by train. I have written a detailed guide on everything you need to know to take the train in India here – but generally, interstate trains book up well in advance and tickets for local trains can be purchased on the day of travel.
3. Bus
If you are travelling to Kerala on a budget and you don't want to drive, you can fill in the gaps the trains can't reach with public buses, provided by the Kerala State Road Transport Corporation. Sadly, you can't book directly with them or their official partner redBus with many foreign bank cards, I have used Revolut successfully but otherwise, you may need to ask an Indian friend, your hotel, or a travel agent to do it for you.
Alternatively, you can go to the bus station directly and buy your ticket. State buses are fun, sometimes, but not comfortable and do not have air-con. If you are after something a bit more luxurious with AC and possibly a bed, you'll need to book with a private bus company. You can do this in person, with a travel agent, through your hotel, Redbus, or 12GoAsia.
12GoAsia is the only one to accept foreign cards (not counting redBus accepting Revolut) and they charge a pretty big commission for the privilege.
4. Private Driver
You can flag down empty Autos (rickshaws/tuk-tuks) to drive shorter distances, and you can also hire a driver for the whole day or multiple days if public transport isn't your thing. This can, again, be an Auto (3500 per day) or a car with AC (5,000 per day).
5. Boat
There are various ferry services throughout Kerala that charge very little to take you on scenic journeys from A to B. E.g. the ferry from Vypin Island to Fort Kochi and the 8-hour tourist ferry from Alleppey to Kollam.
If you want to make your independent travel in Kerala part of a wider South India itinerary, check out my guide - Ther Best One-Month Itinerary for South India.
Packing Essentials for Kerala
You can get most travel essentials for Kerala when you're out there from affordable, well-equipped pharmacies and grocery stores. My full backpacking packing list is here – but these are a few items that I would not travel to Kerala without:
Odomos/DEET
Long, loose-fitting clothing
Laundry Soap & Clothesline
Flip-Flops
Sarong/Shawl (for cover-ups and driving)
Suncream
FOR TRAVEL INSURANCE for India, do what I do and browse Travel Supermarket - where I choose a cheap policy with a high Defaqto rating.
What to Wear in Kerala
This is probably my most commonly asked question about travel to India, what should female travellers wear?
Traditionally in India, women's clothing covers the legs, cleavage, and shoulders, but having your midriff exposed is no big deal. That being said, in the bigger more modern cities, the middle/upper-class Indian millennial/gen Z girls nowadays often wear shorts and crop tops, and you'll find people in bikinis on the beaches of Kerala and Goa without a thought.
In villages, or at sites of pilgrimage (where people travel to from villages) – if you wear shorts people will stare at you. And I am talking 20 lads surrounding you and basically eating you alive and staring at you. They may have never seen a female leg before, apart from their mum's, and you may as well be doing a porno for them right there.
I wore shorts in Hampi, and I experienced this first-hand, it was very uncomfortable. Nowadays, unless I am at the beach, I tend to just stick to long skirts or combats, but I don't think too much about the top half. T-shirts and vest tops do not draw much attention.
I would never suggest telling a woman what to wear, but if something were to ever happen, the first question all the men would ask is “What was she wearing?” Sick isn't it? So if you would rather not be stared at, do as they do, wear bottoms that go past the knee and a loose-fitting top.
I have written a full article on experiencing India as a female traveller, which answers most questions about safety and extra precautions that can be taken. Check out the guide: Is India Safe for Female Travellers?
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may get a commission if you make a purchase through this website, at no extra cost to you. I only link to products and services that I use and love.
Places to Visit and Things to Do in Kerala
The most popular places to visit in Kerala:
Fort Kochi
Munnar
Alappuzha (Alleppey) Backwaters
Varkala Cliffs
Kovalam Beach
Some more off-the-beaten-path places to visit in Kerala:
Muzhappilangad Drive-In Beach
Chembra Peak Wayanad
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve
Cherai Beach
Anamudi Hills
Gavi & Periyar National Park
Vagamon
Poovar Island
Kerala's most iconic things to do:
Stay on a houseboat
Trek amongst the tea plantations
See a Kathakali dance show
Indulge in Ayurveda treatments
Take a Kerala cooking lesson and try coconut toddy
Watch a Theyyam ritual
Festivals* Onam is the biggest, but I have never joined in as I do not believe in the cruelty to elephants.
I will be publishing travel guides for all of these places to see and things to do in Kerala in the coming weeks. With details on how to get there, how much to budget, where to stay, and my thoughts on all the experiences Kerala has to offer.
For now, check out this 10-day itinerary for Kerala which covers all the highlights!
If you fancy doing some Yoga whilst in India, check out my guide on Where to Practice Yoga in India to find out how you can experience yoga at an Ashram in Kerala.
Things I Wish Kerala Would Do Better
There are only two issues that bother me when I am in Kerala. The first is litter, as with most of India, littering is so widely accepted by locals that most natural places are filled with it. It is something you just had to choose to turn a blind eye to, and hopefully, with time and a change of attitude Keralites will stop littering their beautiful home.
The second is dogs. Much of India has an exemplary attitude towards the treatment of street dogs, but for some reason, many people of Kerala (not all of them) do not have any love for strays. Some people are scared of Rabies, which is valid, but don't seem to consider that well-fed dogs are easily caught to be sterilised and vaccinated, and are happy, fat, and less aggressive and territorial overall.
I have been reprimanded several times for feeding street dogs (to which I pay no notice) – but I really wish the people of Kerala could do better here. On a selfish note, it's really hard to enjoy your holiday surrounded by starving and sick dogs and puppies, and on a grander scale, street dogs are PART OF THE COMMUNITY and should be treated as such.
I work with an organisation in Kerala called Cherai Tails which I talk about in my Summer Newsletter - where you'll find more info on how you can help the street dogs of Kerala through volunteering or donating.
General Travel Advice for India (Visas + Health)
You can find all the detailed information you need on preparing for a trip to India in my guide: A pre-departure checklist for travelling in India - but read on to get the basics on visas you'll need and healthcare concerns you need not have when planning independent travel in Kerala.
VISAS
The visa application process has been simplified A LOT over the last few years. When I first applied in 2013, everything had to be done in person, with extremely complicated forms, different fees depending on your nationality, and length of stay seemingly dished out at random.
This has now all been restructured, and can now all be done online. You can choose between a 1-month, 1-year or 5-year tourist visa (with multiple entries allowed and max. 90 or 180 days at a time.)
The current price for a 1-year tourist visa to India for UK citizens is $40 USD.
You can apply for your visa through the government website.
THE VISA STARTS THE DAY IT IS GRANTED - NOT THE DAY YOU ENTER!
Results come within 72 hours so plan accordingly.
Be aware that you will have to upload a passport photo, but the dimensions are different to our UK version. Most photo booths offer the 'Indian-sized option' passport photos as well.
It may come in handy to take spares of these photos; pre-chopped, on your travels. Depending on where you visit, you may be asked for photos to get permits to cross particular land borders e.g. entering Sikkim.
FOOD
This is a hot topic when people are researching for travelling to India! If you have a sensitive stomach, maybe give yourself a few days to acclimatise before you move on to trying street food.
I have always eaten food from small carts and have never been ill - but I know people who have had an upset stomach constantly. Most Hindus are vegetarian, so there are great options available if you want to avoid meat. You can get excellent fresh seafood in Karnataka, Goa and Kerala.
HEALTHCARE
If you do need it, Indian chemists, doctors, and A&Es have a very high standard. I’ve been in a few scrapes and I’ve found the healthcare to be better than in the UK, as there are fewer wait times and it's quite affordable. (Please bear in mind this may not be the case in more rural areas).
For reference, an evening in A&E in Kerala with medication cost me £3. (I had a reaction to some seafood, but nothing serious.)
Thank you for reading my travel guide for independent travel in Kerala. If you enjoyed the read, please consider subscribing to my blog where I post articles once per week filled with travel inspiration and stories from my adventures around the world.
Is it your first time in India?
Read my post on planning a trip to India - with a pre-departure checklist and tonnes of handy travel tips to help you prepare!
Happy Travels! xx
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