How to get a Protected Area Permit (PAP) for Arunachal Pradesh
Updated: Dec 7
In this guide, I will tell you how to get a Protected Area Permit, known as a PAP, to visit Arunachal Pradesh as a foreigner. There are quite a few formalities to be done, but it is definitely worth putting the time in to get the permit, as Arunachal Pradesh is an amazing place.
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About Arunachal Pradesh
Arunachal Pradesh is a state in the extreme Northeast of India, bordering Bhutan, Tibet, and Myanmar. Most of the state's terrain consists of deep valleys flanked by highland plateaus surrounded by the epic ranges of the Eastern Himalayas.
The dominant religion in this part of India is Christianity, however there a plenty of Buddhists, Hindus, and tribes practising Donyi-Polo spirituality. More than 2/3 of Arunachal Pradesh's population are part of designated 'Scheduled Tribes' - these are people in India who are considered Indigenous and fall outside of the typical social structure.
Due to the disputed border with China, Arunachal Pradesh is a heavily militarised zone, and every other vehicle you pass is part of an army convoy. This is why it has historically been very difficult for foreigners to visit this state, but luckily for us, the rules were relaxed in 2023.
It is best to avoid Arunachal during the rainy season, as the mountain roads are treacherous enough already, so adding downpours and landslides into the mix is risky business. I visited in October and it was warm and beautiful, but any time between October and March is a nice time to visit. For more details on planning a trip to India, check out my guide: A Pre-departure Checklist for Travelling India.
For travel insurance for India, I put my trust in Safety Wing, as they were the only insurance company I could find that would let me start a policy mid-way along my travels. I signed up for their 4-week rolling nomad insurance as it is affordable and covers almost every country. They have been great so far!
Protected Area Permit Rules and Prices
For a foreigner to visit Arunachal Pradesh, they need a Protected Area Permit, called a PAP. This is different from an Inner Line Permit (ILP) which is what Indians need to visit Arunachal.
You should apply for your permit 1-2 weeks before the day you plan to enter Arunachal Pradesh, and the fee is $50 or 4200rs. The permit takes up to 5 working days to process and can be sent to you by WhatsApp. Mine took 6 days, but there was a holiday for Mahatma Gandhi's birthday.
There are some restrictions, so as a foreign solo traveller, you are only allowed to visit Itanagar, Bhalukpong, Bomdila, Dirang, Tawang, and Ziro Valley circuits. When they say circuits, it means you can stay anywhere along these routes.
Not sure what to pack for your trip to India? Check out the I Dream of Mangoes article:
*Travellers with breasts should wear their very best sports bras when travelling by road into Arunachal Pradesh, IYKYK*
Documents needed when applying for a PAP
To apply for the permit you'll need:
A photocopy of your passport
A photocopy of your visa
A pre-chopped passport photo (non-Indian size is accepted)
You'll need to know your date of entry into Arunachal Pradesh and where you'd like to visit
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Getting a PAP in person
You can get a Protected Area Permit in person from the Deputy Resident Commissioner Office in Guwahati (Assam) Monday – Friday before 2pm.
(The office is located close to the Down Town Hospital on Lakshmi Mandir Path on G.S. Road, opposite Hotel Shoolin Grand. It is about 25-30 minutes from the train station by bus.)
I have heard you can also apply in person this way in both Kolkata and Delhi, but I cannot verify this.
This option did not work for me as I landed in Assam on a Friday evening and did not want to wait until Monday to apply - so I used an alternative method...
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Getting a PAP online
I was in Kerala when I was trying to secure my permit, so I called the Foreigners Regional Registration Officer (FRRO) in Cochin to advise, and they directed me to apply online with this website:
Unfortunately, every time I tried to make an account, the OTP took 3+ hours to come through, so I gave up. You may have more luck!
Getting a PAP via WhatsApp
Instead, on the Facebook group Every Passport Stamp I found a number for Mr Manab (+919864929052) – he works for the government of Arunachal Pradesh. I took a chance and WhatsApped him, and it worked out in my favour as he arranged everything for me!
Mr Manab sent me the forms, which I printed, signed, attached my passport photo to, took a photo of, and sent back.
He then sent me his UPI (the popular Indian electronic payment method) and asked for 4200rs, which at the time was the equivalent of $50. I do not have UPI so I had an Indian friend make the transaction for me, and 6 days later my permit arrived by WhatsApp.
If you do not have an Indian friend to help you with the UPI you cannot do it yourself with the Wise app, but there will be an additional fee.
My permit had been issued from the day I said I was entering AP, with a 14-day duration. I was told to print multiple copies of this as I would be asked for them at the AP border and in each place I stayed.
Physical documents Needed for Crossing into Arunachal
Permit copy
Passport copy
Visa Copy (including Evisa)
Printout of the passport page with your Indian entry stamp
The border officials will also ask for your Homestay address, their contact, and your phone number. They called my phone immediately to check it was the right number, it is always helpful to have a local phone number rather than using eSIMs in India. I was then told that I had to check in at the police station in every town I slept in.
I only stayed in one place, Chug Valley, and my homestay owner gave me the WhatsApp of the local police station, so I messaged my permit, visa, and passport page to them and they said thanks very much... there was no need to physically visit the police station.
My Experience in Arunachal Pradesh
I visited Arunachal because I wanted to go to Damu's Heritage Dine – a destination restaurant aimed at preserving the culture of the Monpa Tribe in Chug Valley. They offer a 7-course tasting menu with every ingredient grown in the village itself apart from salt and oil, and the restaurant is set in a house that is more than 100 years old. They told me I was the first foreigner to visit, I think they meant Westerner, but still pretty cool.
I got around by Sumo, which is a shared 4x4 taxi, the roads are hellish so it is best not to look out the window. Everyone was exceptionally friendly, if not a little baffled by my presence, and English is not widely spoken to be prepared to do some Google Translate and a lot of miming!
I stayed at Cosmos Homestay (+917629843799), it was a lovely spot for 1500rs per night and they looked after me very well, although I will be glad to never have to eat Yak cheese again. As we were so close to the water source, I drank boiled tap water the whole time and had no issues. Look out for my upcoming article to find out more: Fine Dining on the ast Frontier - A Journey to India's Most Unique Restaurant.
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Happy Travels
xx
Hi Aimee, is the person who applies for PAP reliable source?