This is a story about a girl named Della, and how she and I travelled by overnight train from Kerala to Goa on a balmy day in September, a month when the monsoon is just beginning to withdraw its soggy grip from the South of India.
Now, I am no stranger to travelling by rail in India, a mode of transport I find both enchanting and chaotic, which saying that, is sort of how I feel about this country as a whole. This time, however, I was travelling with Della, a 46kg Golden Labrador.
Cherai - Where We Started
Those of you familiar with my blog or my life know that I love travelling to Kerala. This year is my 7th trip, and as usual, I explore somewhere new (You can check out my India Travel Guides here to read about where I have been) and then return to my regular haunt of Cherai Beach on Vypin Island.
It is not just the backwaters and sunsets that bring me back to this little fishing community near Fort Kochi, where I have always felt at home, but also Cherai Tails – a group of dog lovers who care for the community strays of Kerala and a network I am proud to be a part of.
Sterilisation is the main priority for Cherai Tails, but sometimes a nasty case of abuse or abandonment means that a dog needs to be rescued from the streets and rehomed. Dogs are dumped every weekend at Cherai Beach by their fickle owners, and finding adopters is not easy.
So during my recent month-long stay in Kerala, I was to take one of these rescue dogs, Della, to her new home.
This would be a 24-hour journey taking us 700km northwards through the picturesque paddies of northern Kerala, along the coastline of Karnataka, and finally to the shores of South Goa.
Della
Della's story is a sad one.
She was dumped by her owners at Cherai Beach in August 2023 at 2 years old.
Being a pet Labrador, Della had no idea how to survive on the streets, and it is likely she went looking to nearby people for food and comfort. But Della is a big girl, and I suppose folks were scared of her because they threw rocks at her face (humans, eh?)
We found her emaciated with a wound on her forehead from being stoned, and even though we were at full capacity we could not leave her. Della was moved to a small rented villa where some of the other abandoned pets took shelter. She was treated, sterilised, vaccinated and kept safe – but it was far from the loving family life she so wanted and deserved.
It took us a whole year to find Della a suitable adopter, someone who would let her live inside in the air-con during the hotter months of the year and give her plenty of exercise - not too much to ask, right?
Eventually, after much perseverance, in August 2024 a lady called Sydenstrica (an Angel, actually) saw my millionth adoption post and offered Della a home in Goa with her son Tinkesh and her other golden Lab; Mia. I quickly realised this was the real deal, and finally, a chance for Della to have a family of her own.
So, not for the first time, I was taking an overnight train in India, but this time I had a 46kg Labrador in tow.
Taking a Dog on the Train in India
Dogs can travel on trains in India, with some restrictions.
If you have an easy-going, smallish dog and are travelling on a low budget, you can request (in writing) for the Station Master to put a dog crate on your desired train, and then you yourself can sit in any class.
However, you don't actually find out if the crate has been put onto the train until you get to the station on the day of travel, and for Della, we did not want to A. take that risk and B. keep her in a hot crate for 13 hours.
The other option for taking dogs on the train in India is to book out a first class (1AC) cabin (4 beds) or coupe (2 beds). This is an air-conditioned compartment with a lockable door – and if you have the budget, the most comfortable way a dog can travel by train in India.
The only catch, is that you HAVE to get on board at the train's origin, not part way along the journey. SO. For our trip from Kerala to Goa I went on RailYatri to scour for possible train routes and sure enough, I saw that there was a train once per week starting in Ernakulam (our closest train station) and terminating in Goa. It was the Ernakulam – Madgaon SF Express, which takes 13 hours overnight.
There were only 4 AC beds left available so I booked them all (the total cost being around £120). For a step-by-step guide on booking a train in India check out my article: Train Travel in India for Tourists & Train Classes.
Travelling in 1AC is pretty cushty, you can enjoy sweeping landscapes coming into view, tea and food service, clean blankets and clean(ish) toilets. Me and Della were going to be quite comfortable on the journey itself, there were just the myriad of hoops to jump through first...
The Formalities
As with many things in India, the process feels unnecessarily convoluted, but somehow, somehow things come together in the end. Taking the train with a dog is no exception to this perfect madness.
First and foremost, Della had to have a 'fit to travel' letter from the vet, as well as certifications for all her vaccinations, stamped 24-48 hours before the time of our train journey from Kerala to Goa.
We then had to take print-outs of these documents, as well as a formal letter to the Chief Reservations Officer requesting not only that we be allowed to board with a dog, but that all four x AC beds I booked could be in one cabin. This means we are not disturbing other passengers, because guess what? If one passenger complains about Della at all during the journey, we have to get off the train at the next stop.
So my Malayali friend Krish and I headed over to Ernakulam station 2 days before our train was scheduled to get this stuff in order in person with the Chief Reservations Officer. I have noticed that many Keralites quickly get frustrated if they don't understand my English, and I had to keep in the good graces of the all-powerful railway staff, who could decide Della's fate based solely on whether they felt like being helpful or not.
I literally went straight from the plane from London to do this, spending two hours in stinking hot traffic, only to find the Chief Reservation Officer in a 'not so helpful mood' - telling me to 'fax the documents in'.
We had spent so much time and money gathering these documents, that I felt uneasy just faxing them into the abyss, so when Krish and I saw she was leaving for a lunch break we snuck back in and instead approached her replacement.
He took our papers and assured us we shouldn't have a problem getting a private cabin for me and Della on that coming Monday, but we wouldn't know for sure until 4 hours before the train takes off, as that is when they release the seating chart...
Homeward Bound
There are 34 stops on the Ernakulam - Madgaon SF Express and all of them are 2 - 5 minutes long. This is NOT enough time to get a chunky Labrador off the train for the toilet and back on, no way no how, so I had to start pulling together supplies for the journey. Moisture-soaking puppy pads, disinfectant, napkins, lavender-scented bin bags, lots of water, chews, bowls, snacks, a blanket, plus all of my stuff.
The following day, our train was due to depart at Ernakulam at 13:25 - but Della and I had to check in to the Parcel Office at 10am. I think Della is the parcel? Anyway, when Aneesh and I collected our girl around 9am, Della being quite used to travelling by TukTuk by now just hopped right in. Aneesh is the only paid staff member at Cherai Tails, he is a driver and he takes care of all the 'Beach House Dogs', and he was our ride to the station.
The syrupy monsoon air made her pant (and me sweat profusely) so Della insisted on hanging her head out the window for the 60 minute journey to the Ernakulam Junction. With so many motorbikes whizzing past (Indian traffic is a free for all) I also had to lean out the window and shield her face so she didn't accidentally get clipped by the passing scooters.
We made it to the train station, located the Parcel Office and tried to get Della checked in. I'll be honest I didn't really know what I was doing, and as all the workers were so scared of Della (she's really big), nobody helped us, or even came near me for that matter. Being with Della is the most personal space I have ever had in India!
Della was nervous, padding around excitedly and peeing all over the packing warehouse much to my embarrassment. I am just grateful she didn't go number 2. That's when I saw the scales they use to weigh packages, perched off the ground, and I knew there was no way I could get Della to climb up there and be weighed nicely. Thankfully the Parcel Officer took my word for it that she was 46kg.
After spending a painfully long time checking all Della's documents, the guy in charge told me her certificates were too old and they had to be stamped less than 24 hours before our train. He was wrong. I wasn't going to tell him that mind you, instead my strategy was sweet and apologetic - "Would he please make an exception?"
Stroking his ego worked, and I paid 515rs and got Della's boarding pass. We still had 2 hours before our train should leave, so we returned to the Auto where we sat sweltering in the midday heat until it was time to go to the platform. Della had some water and a chew and I had a Biryani.
Chaos
At around 12:45 I saw our train was starting to board so I went to get Aneesh and Della. As Della is quite an easy-going lass I was surprised to see how terrified she was inside the station, and we still had to get up three flights of stairs to cross the overpass and then climb back down to our platform. Della would not move.
Stairs up were a no-go, Della just would not budge, and we certainly couldn't lift her.
In a panic, I had the awful idea of trying her up the escalator. If I had thought clearly, this idea never would have flown, but we were hot and rushed and still had to find the compartment of our very, very long train.
Aneesh was holding Della and I had my bags and our papers, at the same time trying to encourage her from the front of the escalator that it was all going to be okay - this huge metal moving monster was not going to hurt her.
As we were nearing the top, which was packed with people by the way, I jumped ahead and got down on all fours to make sure Della lifted her paws at the end, as I was having horrendous mental images of her legs getting mangled in the top.
This was the moment when she freaked out, slipped her collar, and started bounding back down the escalator against the flow of traffic. People were yelping and jumping around her, Aneesh was running after her, also the wrong way down the escalator, shouting “DELLA NOOOO!”
Thank God, out of nowhere the station people stopped the escalator, and Aneesh had a hot minute to try and desperately carry Della up, but she was just too heavy for him. Aneesh was screaming "Helpppppp" at me – and in that moment of chaos I notice some guys standing at the top of the escalator just staring, so I slapped one of them on the back and shouted "CAN YOU PLEASE HELP HIM."
With a kick up the ass from me, Purple-shirt guy sprang into action and helped Aneesh carry Della to the top of the now-still escalator. She was terrified, panting, (so was I, actually) I noticed one of her nails was broken too. In the distance I could hear our train going WOO WOO as it is getting ready to leave. Our train. SHIT.
We ran along the bridge and saw there were three sets of stairs to get down. F*CK. Della, not fond of stairs anyway (apparently!?) and clearly traumatised by the last set of moving stairs, would not move another inch. She laid down, dug her paws in, and was totally done with our shenanigans. If only she knew what was waiting for her in Goa.
I pushed her bum, Aneesh dragged her by the throat (I am so sorry Della), and Purple-shirt guy appeared again, helping to push, slowly slowly... she was half walking and half being dragged to the bottom fo the stairs.
As if things could not get worse, I then saw that our train was very high away from the platform, it would be no exaggeration to say it was 1 metre high off the ground. Vertical animals like us can step, reach, and haul ourselves up by the railings onto the train. Della had to be lifted, with only seconds to spare.
With everything we had been through, we could not miss this train now.
I threw my bag on board, Aneesh grabbed Della by her front end, I lifted her butt, we heaved once, we missed! "WOO WOO" … we heaved again with all the strength I could muster, and bundled her on, I climbed up too - and the train started chugging away.
Bye Aneesh, it was just me and Della now.
Thankfully a quite assertive train conductor saw the fear in my eyes took Della's leash from me and guided us to our cabin. And BREATHE.
As you can probably imagine, I have NO pictures for this part of our story.
The Journey - Kerala to Goa by Train
Della and I arrived at our compartment hot and anxious, but we had made it. My head was swimming with fear about how I was going to manage with Della alone when we pulled into Madgaon Station in 13 hours time.
But, 13 hours is a long time, and 1AC is a very comfortable train class. Della and I started cooling down with the air-con in full flow, and I was able to think.
I immediately messaged my hotel in Goa to ask the manager to collect me from the platform, and to bring another person, explaining that I needed help to get off the train. It was 3am when we were due to arrive, and I offered to pay extra for the service.
He replied to my message: "OK Sir"
It doesn't sound promising, does it?
So I asked a friend to give the guy a call, to confirm I was due to arrive at 3am and I'd need help on the platform: "Yes Sir."
At this point, I felt there was a 50/50 chance he was going to show up, but I tried to block it out of my mind and try to enjoy the journey.
I laid out the blanket, pads, water, and food for Della, who was standing by the door of our cabin wishing she was anywhere but here (so I imagine.) I tried my best to comfort her and eventually, we both settled down. Della did not eat or toilet, and when I went to pee I waited for a passing person and asked them to stand outside my cabin door, just in case Della tried to make a break for it.
As I drifted off to sleep I couldn't help the whirling questions - Will we be able to get off the train? Will someone collect us? How am I going to do this on my own. Chugachugachugachugaaaaaaa...
The Station - Take 2
At sometime around 3am as the train pulled into Madgaon Station, me and Della gathered our things and crept out towards the door. To my utter delight, we were only about 1ft from the platform and that was low enough for me and Della to hop off easily! Fantastic!
I started scouring for stairs, my next biggest fear, but it seemed there were ramps only. Della did not like walking on the metal as it felt unsteady and made scary sounds, so it did take a lot of stop-starting and cajoling and a tiny bit of dragging (sorry, sweetheart) to get up and over the ramp to leave the station - where as I half-expected, no one picked us up – Ok Sir sure.
We got down to the auto stand and all the drivers shook their heads at Della, nope no chance.
I tried one meek attempt at “I'll pay extra” and about 1 second later I had an offer for a lift to Colva Beach, to a dog friendly hotel where me and Della could rest our weary heads for a few hours.
Della and I hopped in the auto and away we went, paying 600rs for the 15-minute journey to our hotel. We struggled to find it at first and actually got shuffled back and forth between two hotels until the rickshaw driver (with suspiciously bloodshot eyes) started banging on doors to wake someone up. I immediately appreciated his forcefulness.
After being charged double the nightly rate for 'extra charges' (this is something I would normally fiercely contest but with Della waiting in the TukTuk I couldn't risk being turfed onto the streets) - I coughed up.
Once we reached our room I showered heartily while Della waited by the door almost as if to say, "Can we go home now?"
Clean from the anxious sweat, train funk, dog slobber and dust, I allowed myself to close my eyes for a few hours.
A little while later I took Della out for a pee and a walk around the patio, and we set off all the neighbouring dogs into a barking frenzy. Della being Della plodded along without a moment's notice to the chaos we were causing, happily sniffing and panting and probably grateful not to be locked into one unusual room after another.
Sydenstrica and Tinkesh (Della's adopters) were picking us up at noon, so they could meet Della and take us both back to their house to meet their dog Mia and for a spot of lunch.
I knew straight away they were the right people when they came into our hotel room and started talking to and fussing over Della. I was holding back my tears as I saw Della lapping up the attention, this was something she had been craving for so long - humans of her own.
She hopped straight into the back of their car and lay awkwardly in the footwell for the 20-minute drive to their home, one day when she's fit and healthy she will be able to ride on the back seat, as Mia does.
We pulled into their estate and Tinkesh had me let her off the lead, where she was greeted by Mia, her new little sister, and they sniffed and trotted around the front patio. Della (never being off lead before apart from in the villa) came immediately when she was called. Phew.
She had some curd water and chicken, lay in the AC, sniffed around the garden, and learnt how to push through the screen doors with her head to get from room to room. She is not brave enough to climb the stairs yet (it is a 3 storey house and Mia bounds all over the place). Sydenstrica and Tinkesh made me a delicious lunch and we chatted over cold beer (for me) about their lives and their foundation.
It was a bittersweet goodbye after lunch but I knew that Della was in the best place possible, and I would go through the stress of the previous 24 hours a million times over for the reward of seeing videos of Della playing in the ocean and lying in her bathrobe by the fan after a scrub down.
I took a taxi to a Goan beach called Benaulim where I decompressed for an evening, watching the sunset and the locals play volleyball on the beach with a beer in hand, before I would take the train back to Kerala the next day.
Thank you for reading Della's story.
To support Cherai Tails or learn more about what they do, head over to Cheraitails.com
Please also check out my Travel Guide for Independent Travel in Kerala - my favourite place in the world!
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Happy Travels! xx
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Disclosure:
What a remarkable story and achievement taking Della by train to her new home. It was a tense read but how rewarding to see her happy and safe with her new family. Well done Aimee, your dedication is humbling.