Coming Home to Kerala: A 10-Day Itinerary Through 'God's Own Country'
Updated: 5 days ago
In this 10-day itinerary for Kerala, we will go over everything you need to know to plan a trip to the southernmost state of India, a place aptly named 'God's Own Country' and one of my favourite parts of the world.
There is a reason so many people linger on in Kerala or return year after year. Here you will not find the chaos that is intertwined with travelling much of the rest of India, in Kerala you can feel like you can just breathe.
Read on to find out why Kerala is so enchanting, where to stay in Kerala, things to do in Kerala, how to get there, when to go, and how to get around.
CONTENTS
For more details on planning a trip to Kerala, check out my article: The Ultimate Guide for Independent Travel in Kerala.
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About Kerala
Kerala is so vastly different from the rest of India. For a start, they have the first democratically elected communist government (enjoying semi-autonomy from the central government of India), which means they don't have the same rules as the rest of the country (notably being allowed to eat beef).
Whilst they have the best healthcare and education in the country, Keralites are still often looked down upon by the northern states because of their darker skin. The official language is Malayalam, although many people speak English and some speak Hindi too. Kerala is the home of Ayurveda, Kathakali dance, tranquil backwaters and sprawling tea plantations.
The dreamy backwaters and the Arabian Sea can be captured in one lens; and if you're lucky you will see dolphins play in the ocean and Eagles and Kites soar above you as you bob around in the warm, balmy water. Local fishermen take advantage of the cool of the evenings, sitting on the rocks by the water in their lungi (a traditional dress that resembles a sarong), chatting and relaxing.
Now, I'm not saying the beaches of Kerala are as vast and as beautiful as those of Goa, but they are also not swarmed with tourists and littered with endless beach bars, as Goa can be. The real charm of Kerala lies within her people. They'll go out of their way to help you with anything, their eyes glistening with pride that you're choosing to visit their home. I have never once been bothered here.
Things tend to quieten down here at about 10 pm and prices can be a little higher than elsewhere. But, as I said, there is a reason why so many linger on here. I myself have spent more than one year on and off at a little place called Cherai Beach on Vypin Island, which is where I'll start this 10-day Kerala itinerary.
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When to Go to Kerala
This is really important!
I normally enjoy travelling off-season, as the prices are better and there are fewer people, however March-June in Kerala is STIFLING. I wouldn't wish it upon anyone, even the local people struggle. It's almost 100% humidity.
In March one year I stayed in Kerala for several weeks, and even though I was drinking more than 7 litres of water a day, I never ever peed... I just found it impossible to stay hydrated! Maybe that's too much information, but I'm really trying to emphasise this point! It was so so hot that the ocean was like a jacuzzi...
Kerala has also been hard hit by monsoons and flooding these past few years (June-Aug).
Long story short: Visit: September-February.
A 10-Day Itinerary through Kerala
It is worth noting that this itinerary takes you to Kerala's most popular places (and they are favoured for a reason). If you are looking for an off-the-beaten-path itinerary, this one is not for you, but you should check out my article:
1. Cherai Beach, Vypin Island (2 Nights)
The first stop on this 10-day Kerala itinerary is the paradise of Cherai Beach, a small fishing village on a sandbar island called Vypin. It is close to Cochin Airport, so it is the ideal place to adjust after a long flight.
Getting there
Located 1 hour from Cochin International Airport, an airport taxi will cost approx. 1300rs, or an Uber will set you back 900rs.
Where to stay at Cherai Beach
I normally stay at Sajeev Homestay, which is simple but nice and centrally located. If you prefer something with more of a 'sanctuary' feel, check out the other options on booking.com.
What to do on Cherai Beach
Cherai Beach is quite a sleepy place (except on Sundays, which should be avoided like the plague) but there are some nice things to do. My favourite is to hire a bicycle and get lost in the many trails around the backwaters. You can hire a bike for 100rs a day from KJV Enterprises Cycle Showroom Cherai.
You can also hire a driver to take you around some cute places, like the coconut oil factory, a silk scarf workshop, and the Chinese fishing nets, to name a few. A whole day with a driver and car/rickshaw will set you back 3500 rs (roughly).
Kerala is known for Ayurveda, and there are plenty of places on Cherai Beach where you can indulge in treatments.
If you like dogs, it is also worth messaging Cherai Tails to see if they need a hand for the day! I have volunteered for this shelter since its conception in 2017 and they do an amazing job at caring for Cherai's streeties.
Where to Eat on Cherai Beach
Ocean View: A boat-shaped restaurant that has homely food at a good price. I love the Tomato Fry and Kerala Parotta, actually anything! They catch the fish fresh that day. They'll also rent mopeds to you for 300rs a day if you ask nicely.
Lilliput: A bigger selection of cuisine from all over Kerala. The service isn't as good as Ocean View but the Fish Pollicathu is wonderful.
Chilli Out Cafe: A decent pizza joint if you want a break from Indian food, with the best views of that amazing sunset over the Arabian Sea.
Cherai Beach is my favourite place in the world, and I don't think there is a greater feeling than cycling over the bridges between the backwaters and the ocean, with friendly waves from the locals and stopping for a fresh coconut.
It really is bliss! During your travels here you may meet a few long-timers who came here by chance and never left. And who knows, you may become one of them!
An extra note
As I mentioned before, if it's at all possible, avoid visiting on a Sunday. This is when all the coaches come with families from other parts of Kerala to enjoy the beach. It gets quite rammed and noisy in the afternoon and bunged up with traffic.
2. Alapphuza (Alleppey) (2 Nights)
Getting to Alleppey
The second stop on this 10-day Kerala itinerary is Alleppey! And to get there the best ways are to rent a moped and drive or take the train.
You can rent a scooter casually (via your guesthouse or a local restaurant) for 300rs daily, or if you want something flashier like a Royal Enfield that'll set you back about 800rs a day.
Once you get past Ernakalum the A66 hugs the shoreline pretty much the whole way down to Varkala, it's a beautiful route and there is no traffic. (Don't get this confused with the 66 - it's a bigger main road that stays inland, much more dusty and much less interesting).
Caution: If a bus is behind you, pull over to the side and let it pass. They are big and scary and drive very fast. Also, use your horn for everything! Every turn and every manoeuvre, it's an important form of communication to let people know that you're there.
If this mode of transport is not your thing, there are options for trains from Aluva.
For the full guide on how to buy a train ticket and take the train in India, check out my article: Train Travel in India for Tourists (& Train Classes).
Where to Stay in Alleppey
I stayed at the Funky Art Beach House (booking.com).
It was quite basic but did the job! Alleppey is very popular with tourists so there are heaps of options, including the region's famous houseboats.
Things to Do in Alleppey
Explore the backwaters! We chose to do the 4-hour canoe trip, so we could weave in and out of the smaller lagoons. We shared our canoe with a father-daughter group from Australia, and we had such a great time with them, that we ended up meeting up with Annie and Simon again at our next stop: Varkala.
Not sure what to pack for your trip to India? Check out the I Dream of Mangoes article:
3. Varkala (2 nights)
Getting there
It is a 3-hour drive from Alapphuza to our third stop on this 10-day Kerala itinerary, Varkala, and in fact, it is the prettiest section of the road trip; if you remember to shift back onto the coastal road.
There were election parades at the time of my journey, so Marie and I had to pull over a few times to let them pass. Everyone was good-spirited and just having fun, so we didn't feel any discomfort. Elections elsewhere in the country can get volatile, so be mindful of when these are happening when planning your trip to India.
Varkala is perhaps the most touristy part of Kerala and there is a reason why. The hotels and shops sit along a cliff top overlooking the beach. It's very picturesque. There are heaps of hotels, we normally use booking.com. Book ahead in high season (Nov-Jan).
Things to do in Varkala
Surf lessons (only lessons, surf-board hire is not a thing sadly)
Ayurvedic Massage (fully naked FYI)
Yoga classes
Beach Walks
Jewellery Making (and shopping!!)
Temples - This is not my thing (no disrespect intended) but may be interesting to you
I really enjoyed just relaxing here with my newfound friends. Eating great seafood and having a few beers whilst watching the dolphins, a lovely part about travel is these brief but sweet connections with like-minded people.
*Bonus Stop: Sivananda Ashram, Neyarr Dam
If you have more than 10 days to travel around Kerala you can stay at Sivananda Ashram. It is located 2 hours from Varkala, situated in a really wild forested part of Kerala on the border with Tamil Nadu.
We came to practice yoga for one week here (11 USD a night, meals, classes, and accommodation included.) It's a very traditional Ashram, there are plenty of rules - so please read their website carefully before deciding to go. Dress modestly and don't forget your passport.
If you like Yoga, check out my post on where to practice Yoga in India!
4. Munnar (2 nights)
Getting to Munnar
Munnar is the fourth stop on this 10-day Kerala itinerary - and it is a beastly Journey, I'm sorry!
It is a good 7-hour drive, so take plenty of ass-breaks! (Once you've been on a moped for 7 hours you'll know what I mean). Parts of the road are really beautiful, winding and mountainous, we took plenty of tea stops and we even saw a wild elephant on the way!
Munnar is stunning. We stayed in a hostel which was 13km outside of Munnar Town. The views were incredible, but unfortunately, we were let down by the behaviour of the owner and would not stay there again.
What to do in Munnar
Top Station - the border of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, the drive here is actually better than the top, so enjoy it!
WALK - I apologise for being completely useless here, but I didn't take note of any of the places I walked. I just ambled randomly. The tea plantations are gorgeous so you can see why I was so distracted. These guys seem to have a much more comprehensive guide on hiking in Munnar.
Where to eat in Munnar
'Hotel Sri Nivas Restaurant' (Town centre): This was potentially the best Thali in my life, ever! Thali means 'plate', it's a workman's lunch, designed to fill you up for the whole day (a bit like a full English breakfast for you British folks.)
*There is an evening street food market with no name, it's on the main road coming out of Munnar, I saw only locals dining there. You can get a fab meal for 50 rs - Try the KOTHU PAROTTA!
5. Fort Kochi (1 Night)
Fort Kochi last stop on this 10-day itinerary through Kerala, and okay so you could definitely stay here longer as Kochi is gorgeous!
I'm a stroller, so I could spend days navigating the streets. Heaps of Portuguese architecture, the Old Palace, the Jewish Quarter, shops, restaurants, I could go on. It's not like a lot of other Indian Cities - it's well-planned, clean and quiet (if you've acclimatised to the endless car horns by now).
So again, this is a place to be walked. Get lost in it!
Where to eat in Fort Kochi
Mary's Kitchen - a lovely little rooftop place with excellent service, which can be pretty awful in India, and beautiful food. All are homemade and fairly priced. A veg curry, 2 sides and a soft drink will set you back about 300 rs.
Sri Krishna Cafe - an institution! Locals and tourists are mashed up together. The waiters don't have English but there is an English menu. The food is cheap and traditional, I came here almost every day for lunch. Have the dosa! (Coconut chutney FTW). Lunch and a chai: 80rs.
If you have rented a moped, you can go back to Cherai Beach by taking the ferry from Fort Kochi (5rs) and driving 40 minutes along the beach road on the other side.
And Voila, you have completed your 10-day itinerary through Kerala!
Thank you for reading Coming Home to Kerala: A 10-day itinerary through God's Own Country (it is called that for a reason!) If you enjoyed the read, please consider subscribing to my blog where I post articles once per week about my current travels.
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Happy Travels! x
I stumbled upon your blog by chance, and I found it to be well-written and informative. Thank you for highlighting and visiting our state.