Backwaters & Beaches | A Unique Kerala - Goa Itinerary
Updated: Nov 14
In this unique Kerala - Goa itinerary, we will go over everything you need to know to plan your trip to the two dreamiest destinations in South India.
Goa and Kerala are often called 'India-Lite', as there is very little hassle and chaos there relative to much of the rest of the country. Because of this, and the fact that they are immensely beautiful regions, they are also popular with tourists but don't worry - for those who prefer fewer crowds (like me), I have you covered.
Read on to learn how to experience the natural beauty of Kerala; 'God's Own Country', from paddling down the serene backwaters to trekking through dense tiger reserves. Our itinerary then takes you by train to the laid-back shores of Goa, where you can take a yoga class on the beach followed by Piña Coladas at sunset.
CONTENTS
Preparing for a trip to India
For travel insurance, I have put my trust in Safety Wing, and I use their 4-week rolling policy as it is affordable and covers almost every country. They have been great so far!
Here is a checklist of everything you need to cover when planning a trip to India. For more detail on each of these steps head over to my article A Pre-departure Checklist for Travelling India.
Visa: Most countries can apply for an eVisa for 1 month, 1 year, or 5 years. These are multiple-entry visas, but you can only stay in India for 180 days a year. The visa starts the day it is issued, not when you enter, so don't apply too early. Here is the official eVisa website.
Money: Bring cash in GPB, EUR USD or similar and change a small amount at the airport when you arrive, then the rest at the little tourist shops where you're staying. The airport charges a 12% government tax for currency exchange, most other places do not.
SIM: This is a pain in the ass, as India has recently banned many eSims (like Airalo and Holafly) and they have changed the laws several times this year on how tourists can buy physical Sims when they arrive. As of August 2024 though, you should now be able to buy an Airtel Sim at the airport when landing.
VPN: TikTok and anything Pakistan-related is banned - and let's say you're a TikToker or you're applying for a Pakistan visa for onward travel, you won't be able to do either of those things in India without a VPN.
Immigration: You'll need to fill out a tourist card when you land with your first hotel/hosts address on it, if you do not know this you could get stuck for a while. Immigration officials can be a bit sticky so just be polite and sweet as pie. I have never been asked for proof of onward travel or insurance at immigration.
Language: Many people speak English, as well as their state language, and sometimes a third language like Hindi. A polite greeting is to put your hands together in a prayer position, this is especially true for male-female interactions, touching each other with a handshake, for example, is not normal.
For female-specific advice, please have a read of my article: Is India Safe for Female Travellers?
My Top 3 India Packing Essentials for 2024:
Scrubba - An awesome 'washing-machine bag' so I can handwash my own clothes while travelling, paired with this clothesline and laundry soap. (It only weighs 150g!)
Lifestraw - So I can drink rainwater and boiled tap water instead of constantly buying plastic bottles. This one is made of stainless steel, so it can be taken inside National Parks that have banned plastic (there are many!)
Head Torch - You will use this more than you ever think... there will be plenty of outdoor loos, power cuts and poorly lit streets and a head torch comes in so handy!
This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may get a commission if you purchase through this website, at no extra cost to you. I only link to products I use and love.
When to visit South India
This is very very very important.
April, May, June: STIFLING
July, August: Heavy Monsoon
September, October: Little Monsoon
November – March: Nice (Busiest months: December, January, February.)
Many places in Goa close for the season by April and reopen in late November.
For this itinerary, I would be happy to visit any time from September – March.
My preferred months to visit are November and December, as they are the coolest months, and it is not quite the super high season that begins after Christmas. You wouldn't catch me dead here April – June, it's not even funny how hot it gets, especially in Kerala.
How long do you need for the perfect Goa-Kerala itinerary?
This itinerary is 3 weeks, with 2 weeks in Kerala and 1 week in Goa.
Obviously, you could spend a lot longer, but shorter? I suppose you could cram it into 2 weeks, with 4 days in Goa and 10 days in Kerala, but it would be pushing it.
A unique 3-week Kerala-Goa itinerary
Cherai Beach (2 Nights)
Munroe Island (2 Nights)
Kottayam/Malarikkal (2 Nights)
Idukki (2 Nights)
Parambikulam/Periyar (2 Nights)
Fort Kochi (3 Nights)
Overnight TRAIN
South Goa (6 Nights)
With quite a lot of moving around in Kerala, Goa is chill-time. You could easily mix it up and spend 3 nights in each South and North Goa, however, I have been a few times and North Goa is just not my vibe anymore, I will explain more about why in the About Goa section!
About Kerala
I have written about Kerala quite extensively in my post: The Ultimate Guide for Independent Travel in Kerala – so I will just touch on a few things here.
Kerala is known as being the birthplace of Ayurveda and home to the beautiful Backwaters; a myriad of salty-sweet lagoons and canals that run 900km down the coastline. The language is Malayalam, beef dishes rule the menu (illegal in most of India) and the fashion is terracotta or white Lungi.
Kerala is multi-faith, mostly beggar-free, and breathtakingly gorgeous. Coconuts, communists, Kingfishers, Tigers, Tea Plantations, fat paella-style rice, and Kathakali dance are all things you can experience on your itinerary through God's Own Country, named one of Nat Geo's 10 Paradises on Earth (I can vouch for the fact that this is title is completely deserved!)
Arriving in Kerala
There are 4 international airports in Kerala and you're probably going to land at Cochin, the world's first solar-powered airport.
You may notice straight away that Kerala is more expensive than other parts of India, particularly for things like taxis and alcohol. You can still get a nice meal for 50p, don't worry.
In Kerala, TukTuks are called 'Autos' and you can grab one from the airport to your first destination...
There are a few options for getting around in Kerala, you can rent a moped, hire a driver, make use of public buses, or take the train. All the details can be found in my article: An Independent Travel Guide to Kerala.
Where to stay and things to do in Kerala
Cherai Beach
You can grab an auto or Uber from the airport to Cherai Beach for around 1000rs.
I am very fond of Cherai Beach, a fishing community on Vypin Island, and as it is only 40 minutes from Cochin Airport it is the perfect place to rest and acclimatise after a long flight to India.
You can stay on the backwaters or by the beachside, have beers at Baywatch and food at both Waves and Lilliput - but mostly you can just breathe. One of my favourite things to do is rent a bicycle for 100rs a day and get lost around the backwater trails of Cherai.
I suggest avoiding visiting on a Sunday if at all possible, as this is when busloads of Keralites come to enjoy the beach and it gets very congested (most locals to Cherai hide in their houses on Sundays!)
There are quite a few accommodation options for Cherai, I normally stay at Sajeev Homestay but there are a range of places on Booking.com.
Munroe Island
Now that you have recovered from your journey and settled into Kerala, we can head towards our next stop on this 3-week Kerala - Goa itinerary, which is a place called Munroe Island, in Kollam.
You can grab an Auto from Cherai Beach to Aluva Station (35 minutes) or Ernakulam Junction Station (45 minutes) and take the train from either of those points down to Kollam, where you have 3 options for destination stations: Munroturuttu (on Munroe Island so likely walking distance to your homestay), Sathsankotta (15 min drive away) or Kollam (40 min drive away).
The train journey is 2 hours, I will explain more about booking a train ticket later on. Other options include taxi, bus, or hiring a scooter and driving yourself.
Munroe Island is amazing. Like truly, amazing. I have written in detail about my time at Munroe Island in my guide: 48 Hours of Serenity: How to Visit Munroe Island – but I will tell you a little bit about it here.
I stayed at Munroe Island Backwaters Homestay – which was exceptional, hosted by Vijeesh and his family. They offer sunset kayak tours and sunrise canoe tours, I did both, and the journeys around the backwaters will blow your mind, This is far from the clogged-up has-been that is Alleppey, in Munroe Island you can see the real Kerala, the tranquil, green, serene life on the water.
Kottayam
Next, we will head back North a tad to Kottayam, to stay in an Ayurveda Hotel and (in season) bask in the famous pink lilies of Malarrikal. You can make the 1-hour journey by train, bus or driving.
I stayed in a historic house on the water called Akkara Homestay, it is effectively a mansion surrounded by fruit trees and a nutmeg farm. They offer very nice Ayurvedic massages which you can indulge in before a delicious homecooked meal (veg and non-veg.) An auto from Kottayam Station to Akarral is 150-250rs.
The manager of Akkara is very informed and he will offer a tour of the grounds if you have time, this place was built in 1815 and has many interesting nuances, it is definitely worth a look.
If you would like to see the lilies, arrange for an Auto to pick you up around 5:45am the following day to head to Malarikkal. This should be around 200rs for the 20-minute journey. When you get there, don't stop at the first lake where the public, shared boats go (unless you want to jump on one for 100rs) but rather the further lake . You can pick up a boatman who will charge 1000rs for a 1-hour boat trip into the Pink Lagoon.
This is one of those places that DOES look like it is portrayed on Instagram, it is wildly pretty, and not that busy. I do think as it gets more insta-famous it will get crowded, so the sooner you visit the better. THE LILIES ONLY BLOOM August, September and October.
The boatmen are very accustomed to taking the right photos, mine fancied himself quite the director and had me in all different kinds of poses. They will pick you a bunch of lilies to take away with you too, whether you like it or not, I gave mine to my Auto driver to give to his mother. He lives in Kottayam and he had never been to the lake before!
For an in-depth how-to on visiting Malarikkal, check out my post: How to See the Water Lilies at Malarikkal, Kerala.
Idukki
This is where our itinerary takes us to the hills! Most people opt for Munnar, and I can see why as it is stunning, however, it has become incredibly commercialised. Luckily for us, almost everyone goes to Munnar so there are lots of other hill stations in Idukki that are not ruined by mass tourism.
This region is only 90 minutes from Kottayam so you can take the bus or a taxi, and you can choose between Vagamon, Kuttikkanam or many other cute villages nestled in one of Kerala's most beautiful natural places, in the Western Ghats mountain range.
Choose from activities like hiking, tea sampling, and visiting the Idukki Wildlife Sanctuary. Or just enjoy the crisp mountain air and chill!
Parambikulam/Periyar
Parambikulam Tiger Reserve is on the border with Tamil Nadu about 6 hours driving north of Idukki. I went to this immaculately kept yet horrifically organised reserve for some trekking, where we saw wild elephants, scarily large snakes, and the iconic Sambar.
Everything for Parambikulam can be booked online and it is quite affordable, the closest train station is Pollachi (Tamil Nadu) where you can then get a bus or taxi for the last one-hour leg to the reserve. Considering the hassle it is to get there, you may want to swap out Parambikulam Tiger Reserve for Periyar Tiger Reserve, as the latter is in the Idukki district and so fits in much nicer to this itinerary - I have not been there but I have heard great things!
Fort Kochi
Fort Kochi is the last stop for the Kerala portion of this unique Kerala - Goa itinerary, and it is actually the only city in Kerala that I like!
Fort Kochi started as a small fishing village but due to its strategic location on the Malabar Coast, the colonial powers loved it. The Portuguese came first and built the Catholic churches that you can still visit today, and then the Dutch swept through and used Fort Kochi as the capital of the spice trade. Finally, the Brits took over until India achieved its independence.
Fort Kochi still has that village feel, with cute and colourful pedestrianised streets, and I'm a stroller, so I could spend days navigating the little laneways, filled with proudly stated 'hassle-free' handicraft and jewellery shops and cafes. Places I particularly enjoyed are Matancherry Palace, Kerala Kathakali Centre, and Kashi Art Gallery and Cafe.
My favourite places to eat in Fort Kochi are Mary's Kitchen (homely food) and Sri Krishna Cafe (an institution) - for something a bit more upmarket with delicious seafood head to Hotel Seagull.
If you have time, be sure to check if the Kerala Blasters are playing a match at the local stadium, Keralites have a frenzied passion for football and this is quite an experience whether you are a footie fan or not!
Taking the train from Kerala to Goa
There are several trains a week from Kerala to Goa, and it is best to choose an overnight one as the journey is 12-16 hours long. I have written in detail about buying a train ticket in India and what the different train classes mean, so do check out My Article on Indian Trains.
For this journey I opted for 3AC which is perfectly comfortable, I always select the upper berth as my preference as it means there is more privacy, and you can lie down whenever you want. If you are in the middle or lower berth you are expected to share the bottom bed as a seat until everyone wants to go to bed. This ticket is just over £10 and there is food service on the train and plenty of Chai-wallahs.
About Goa
In the 1500s the Portuguese captain Vasco da Gama landed on the Konkan Coast and Goa became a Portuguese colony. Goa's colonial history is apparent wherever you go, from the state capital of Panjim and its old Portuguese quarter to the churches, museums and colourful houses dotted across the state.
Goa is a far cry from the carefree hippy haven that it once was. India's smallest state is now more commonly known as the country's party district, with heaps of international and domestic tourists flocking every season to enjoy Goa's natural beauty as well as her 7000 bars! (when I say heaps, it is around 10 million people).
Don't let that put you off though, as Goa is still a tropical paradise, not only does it have 32 brilliant beaches but 1/3 of the state is also covered by pristine forests smattered with waterfalls and freshwater lagoons.
Goa still has 'that vibe' - that Susegad. Susegad is a Konkani word that describes the relaxed, content and fulfilled attitude that is said to be characteristic of Goa, India. It is derived from the Portuguese word sossegado, which means "quiet".
Getting around in Goa
Taxis are extortionate in Goa, you'll be paying around £40 for an hour's worth of driving. If you're able to, renting a scooter is best, just be aware there are police checkpoints everywhere and if you're not wearing a helmet or you're under the influence you will get fined heftily.
If driving is not your thing, there is a very efficient and very cheap public bus service. I paid 50p for a ticket from Madgaon to Panjim - this journey is an hour long so as you can see that is literally 80x cheaper than getting a taxi.
In Goa, you've also got motorbike taxis (the only state in India to offer them) as well as Auto-Rickshaws. Currently, only the driver of a moped/bike has to wear a helmet by law, the passengers do not. (In Kerala and Karnataka, both driver and passenger must wear a helmet, the law changed recently - and I think Goa will be next).
Where to stay and things to do in Goa
If you want to rave it up with the Russians or join the Israeli 'hippies' for drum circles, head North. But if, like me, you're looking for a more serene vibe, you need to choose your beach carefully and stick to the South.
Some parts of the South are being encroached upon nowadays, and I am not saying I am any better than other tourists, but my motivation is always to blend in, do as they do, and experience the authenticity of a place. I just don't really enjoy being surrounded by big parties of tourists anymore! There are still some nice spots in the South, I like Agonda, Patnem, and Benaulim.
After quite a fast-moving itinerary in Kerala, South Goa is where you can just chill. Stroll along the beach, take a yoga class, rent a moped and go waterfall-chasing, grab cocktails on the beach at sunset, keep it low-key and enjoy the atmosphere.
For more activity-based fans you can do this really highly rated Feni and Tapas Tour in Panjim, or partake in a variety of watersports at Baga Beach!
Leaving Goa
Marmagao Airport flies internationally to UAE and Bahrain and flies directly to 14 domestic airports in India.
Budget for a 3-week Kerala-Goa itinerary
Accommodation
You can get nice accommodation with AC for about £20 per night in Kerala, and in Goa, you can get the same standard for more like £12 per night.
Accommodation for 3-week Kerala – Goa itinerary (including overnight train) = £360
Food & Drinks
For food, I normally eat in little local places for breakfast and lunch and then go somewhere nice with a view for dinner.
Breakfast + Tea/Coffee – 100rs (£1)
Lunch + soft drink – 200rs (£1)
Dinner (mid-range) – 500rs (£5)
= £8 per day, which I round up to £12 to include bottled water, and because I do like beer!
Food for 3-week Kerala – Goa itinerary = £252
Obviously, if you like artisanal coffee and want to east Western food, you will pay Western prices. A coffee from Starbucks or a trendy coffee roasters is around 400rs, whereas a cup of Chai from the street is 10rs.
Transport
Travel is another factor, I always use trains where possible, and fill in the gaps with Autos, and for getting around Goa the buses and shuttles are very efficient. A one-hour journey in a taxi in Goa is 4000rs (£40), but the one-hour shuttle from Madgaon to Panjim is 50rs. Choices!
All trains, buses and the occasional Auto/taxi for this 3-week Kerala – Goa itinerary = £150 (this is an educated guess).
Activities
Cherai Bicycle Hire - 100rs
Cherai Coconut Oil Factory - 100rs
Kollam Kayaking Munroe Island - 700rs
Kollam Sunrise Canoe Tour Munroe Island - 1200rs
Kottayam Ayuvedic Massage - 2500rs
Kottayam Boat Trip - 1000rs
Idukki Wildlife Sanctuary - 150rs
Parambikulam Trek - 600rs
Fort Kochi Museums/Galleries - Pennies
Fort Kochi Kathakali Show - 600rs
Goa Feni Tasting - 2500rs
Goa Waterfalls - Free
Total for activities = £80
Total budget for this 3-week Kerala - Goa itinerary
Total Budget for this 3-Week Kerala – Goa Itinerary = £850 (+£200 for extra beer, shopping, unexpected costs) = £1000
(Not including flights, insurance & visa)
Thank you for reading my post: A Unique Kerala - Goa Itinerary
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Happy Travels
xx
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