A Yoga Student's Travel Guide to Mysore (Mysuru)
Updated: 1 day ago
In this Yoga student's travel guide to Mysore, we will cover everything you need to know to plan your trip to the yoga capital of South India and the birthplace of Ashtanga yoga; Mysuru.
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A Yoga Student's Travel Guide to Mysore
About Mysore
Mysore, or Mysuru, is a city in Karnataka - which is a state in the south of India. It is not normally on the international tourist trail, with most holiday-makers to south India rather choosing the shores of Goa or Kerala.
Mysore is however, extremely popular with yoga students, as it is the home of Patthabi Jois, the father of modern Ashtanga, and disciple of Krishnamacharya, who is largely considered to be the person who introduced yoga to the Western world.
You do not have to be a hardcore Ashtangi to practice in Mysore - as lots of different styles of yoga are on offer, however, most of the yoga students you find here are on their annual Ashtanga pilgrimage.
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How to Get to Mysore
The closest international airport to Mysore is Bangalore (Bengaluru) – which is a city 3 hours by road from Mysore. After you've landed, you can take the Flybus directly from the airport to the main bus stand in Mysore, which is a comfy, air-conditioned coach, a ticket is 800rs.
If you're feeling fly you can grab an UBER instead, where the trip will cost about 4000 rs.
If you're coming from another part of India, you'll be pleased to know that Mysore is very well connected. You can take the train from Kerala, the bus from Goa, and so on.
For most booking platforms you will need an Indian bank card. If you have a Revolut card as of 2024 this now works when booking with redBus, which is my preferred booking platform. Otherwise, you can try 12go Asia. - they do charge a commission, but they tend to be reliable.
Where to Stay in Mysore
Mysore is a really big city of 1.3 million peeps, some of it is nice, and some, not so nice. As a yoga student, there is really no point looking any further than Gokulam when choosing where to stay in Mysore.
Gokulam is broken up into 1st Stage, 2nd Stage, 3rd Stage and 4th Stage, which indicates at which junction you are near. This whole neighbourhood has evolved with the yoga craze, and you will be surrounded by fellow yoga students, organic stores, vegan cafes, artisan coffee shops and juice stands. The area feels quite affluent, it's clean, and there is very little hassle here.
The local people are so used to Western yoga students that they do not blink an eye at people wearing gym shorts and crop tops. This is NOT the case in other parts of Mysore, which by all means is a conservative city.
You can find accommodation on booking.com - the cheapest monthly rate for a room in the Gokulam area is something like 15,000rs.
Where to Practice Yoga in Mysore
There are more than 300 yoga shalas in Mysore! You will have no shortage of places to choose from. Some require booking in advance and some allow drop-ins.
SYC
I do practice Ashtanga, but I am not dogmatic about its purity and devoted to the traditional Ashtanga teacher lineage, which is why I do not practice at SYC. You can thank 'Yoga Body: The Origins of Modern Posture Practice' for that – this book deep dives into the history of modern yoga in such a way that will make you question everything you think you know about yoga.
If you would rather go on believing Patthabi Jois is a master and a saint, do not read it, and also do not read about what many of his former students are saying about his sexual misconduct. (I still can't believe people practice with Bikram Choudhury, either).
Anyway, he is long dead now, and up until November 2024 it was his grandson, Sharath, running things, but he suddenly passed away very recently. If you wanted to practice with Sharath, it was akin to getting tickets to Glastonbury, as the student applications were released at a specific time (normally in June) and the site often crashed as so many people were desperate to get on and learn with Sharath in his Mysore teaching season.
The issue is, at SYC you would not really be receiving any personal guidance from Sharath, as there are 500 students in the Shala at any one time, and it's unlikely he would have known your name by the end of your month's practice. Last year I overheard some of his students complaining that they had to wait 45 minutes to be assisted with drop-backs, by which point their bodies had gone cold.
In my opinion, the main draw of practising at SYC is if you want to make a business out of teaching Ashtanga. This is because once you've practised with Sharath for 6 months – and that is spread over a minimum of 3 years e.g. 2 months each year – then you can apply to have your name added to the Authorised Ashtanga Teacher's list.
The reason this list is gold dust is, if you are a travelling Ashtangi like me, you'll look up 'authorised teachers in Nepal', for example, on the SYC list – and go straight there to practice, and so other schools do not even get a look in.
There is also a handful of students who are 'Certified' – this is a step up from Authorised, as they were cleared by PJ himself. People normally travel to a country specifically to practice with these teachers.
With Sharath's sudden death whilst hiking in the USA, the future is uncertain now for SYC, and undoubtedly the entirety of Mysore will be affected.
Schools I know of in Mysore, that are of great renown:
Ashtanga Sadhana – Ashtanga Sadhana is headed up by Vijay Kumar, a yoga teacher who is pretty famous in these parts. Vijay teaches traditional Mysore-style Ashtanga and requires a minimum of 1 month commitment.
Jan and Feb are very busy, he often turns students away these months. If you want to further your practice I highly recommend Vijay, he is an excellent teacher and his adjustments are pretty epic.
Prana Vasha Yoga – Prana Vasha Yoga is run by Vijay's brother; Vinay, they are known as the back-bending brothers! Vinay offers courses throughout the year which are normally a month-long, comprising a combination of pranayama, strength and flexibility classes, and Vinay's own spin on the Ashtanga series.
Mysore Mandala – This is another well-respected yoga school that offers Ashtanga and Hatha classes morning and evening, as well as extra short courses on anatomy, pranayama, and kriyas. You can pay a drop-in fee or stay for the longer term.
KPJAY – KPJAY is run by Patthabi Jois' daughter, Saraswathi. She is 82 years old and conducts classes from a chair at the front of the room, and her daughter Sharmila does most of the assists. This is a traditional Mysore-style Ashtanga practice where you pay by month.
Nirvana Yoga Shala – Nirvana Yoga Shala is run by Dr Shashi Kumar, who is an Osho disciple (the place is practically a shrine to Osho). Shashi leads meditation but does not teach yoga, he has very qualified guest teachers leading classes in Hatha, Ashtanga, Yin, and Acro.
This studio is best for those who want to mix it up, as they offer fantastic packages for accommodation, meals, and access to all classes.
Travel Tips for Yoga Students Going to Mysore
As far as I know, you cannot buy Indian Rupees out of India - so it is best to bring in cash (USD, Euros, GBP, AUD) to change as you go. There are money changers everywhere.
It is 100% worth it to buy a SIM card, however since Feb 2024 the Indian government has made it very difficult, and technically you need to have proof of address in India to do it. Some SIM shops are not yet enforcing this rule, but when they do you'll need an Indian person to buy your SIM for you. E-sims are also currently banned and it is unknown when they will be reinstated.
India is very accustomed to tourism and the infrastructure is all in place – transport, wifi, great health care etc. There is really nothing to worry about here.
I wouldn't bother trying to walk on pavements in Mysore, they are all a bit crumbly, walking on the road is normal practice here.
Not sure what to pack for your trip to India? Check out the I Dream of Mangoes article:
Other Things to Know about Mysore
The Scam
Mysore is known for essential oils like Sandalwood, and beautiful fabrics, especially silk - and there is a huge network of shops selling fake products. If you want to be certain of the quality, go to a government shop, which should also have a fixed price.
If at any point you're looking a bit lost, beware of the 'friendly' rickshaw driver who offers to help you reach your destination for a very cheap price. He may convince you to go to all of these private fabric stores where he earns a commission on anything you buy.
He may also take you to his 'cafe', whose walls are covered in graffiti and messages from other 'tourists' who have had a great time with him! He may then get you stoned, sell you loads of fake essential oils, then tell you he is taking you to Mysore Palace and actually abandon you in the middle of nowhere.
This is something that happened to me when I was a baby-faced traveller in my early 20s. Okay, accepting the cigarette laced with Cannabis Oil was my choice, and luckily apart from spending a bit too much on oils, no real harm was done. We live and we learn.
It always starts with “Where are you from?” It is hard to ignore this question because it feels rude, but this is how they suck you in. Now if passing rickshaw drivers ask where I am from, I shout MARS and then completely blank them from that point onwards.
It is worth noting that it is very rare for this to happen in Gokulam. The drivers have their own 'patches' across the city, and Gokulam drivers get plenty of business without the need to scam people.
In Mysore, as in the rest of Karnataka, the local language is Kannada. Many people also speak Hindi, English, and Tamil.
Indians love to party! Check out this article which runs through all of the biggest festivals in Mysore.
If you're looking to try lots of delicious Indian food while practising yoga in Mysore, you will not be disappointed. There are numerous small restaurants and food stands offering tasty treats, which you will only find by wandering around.
For those looking for healthy food and the best places to hang out, check out my article: The Best Cafes and Restaurants in Gokulam, Mysore.
Things to Do that are not Yoga in Mysore
Hike Chamundi Hills
Visit Mysore Palace
Swim some laps at Gokulam Eco-Pool
Grab a beer at The Barge – Mysore's first microbrewery
Tantalise your senses in the bustling Devaraja Market
Wander through the beautiful Mysore Palace (avoid weekends)
Visit the Government Sandalwood factory + silk factory
Visit the Ranganathittu bird sanctuary (day trip)
Spend a night in the dreamy coffee plantations of Coorg Hill Station; 'the Scotland of India' (overnight trip)
Mysore Trip Combinations
As a yoga student in Mysore, you may want to tag on other destinations in India to your stint in Mysore, and this travel guide has you covered!
All of the following Indian destinations can be reached by overnight bus or train from Mysore, and I can personally vouch for the fact that they are well worth considering.
Goa
Goa has 35 beaches, where you can find anything from hedonistic, all-night trance parties, to secluded coves only visited by local fishermen. Choose your beach wisely! I like quiet, clean, and chill, so I would opt for the south Goa beaches of Agonda or Patnem.
Goa is cheap, beautiful, and the perfect place to unwind after a couple of months of rigid Ashtanga practice.
Hampi
Hampi is an ancient kingdom and a site of pilgrimage for Hindus. Many of the ruins have not been fully excavated and the whole place is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is a super interesting place and I think the best way to experience it is with a guide.
When I went, I did Krishna's bicycle tour and had such a fantastic time that I did Krishna's Royal Enfield Tour the next day, and Krishna's walking tour the following day! It was all brilliant. We did not book this online, Krishna approached us the first morning we arrived near the main Shiva temple.
Kerala
Kerala is like a dream. I have a personal fondness for Cherai Beach, a fishing village near Fort Kochi where you are warmly welcomed by locals and you can spend your days cycling around the backwaters, having ayurveda treatments, and watching dolphins play in the Arabian Sea.
People on a higher budget can have the unique experience of staying on a houseboat in Allapphuza. Kerala is the land of coconuts that “God himself declared his own” - as it is so beautiful.
Kerala tops every list. It is in Nat Geo's Top 10 paradises in the world, it has a 100% literacy rate, the highest life expectancy in India, it is the only state in India whose capital city is completely beggar-free, and it is repeatedly featured in Lonely Planets top 5 holiday destinations. Need I say more?
Thank you for reading my yoga student's travel guide to Mysore!
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Happy Travels
xx
Great blog. Thank you for sharing, so helpful! :)